A few things I noticed from last month’s shows: First of all, I love Dries Van Noten because they always always push the boundaries, they use really bold prints and sexy fabrics, and my Dries vest is probably the only designer piece that I own. I really liked their Fall 09 collection displayed in Paris in March – it was a really cohesive collection that seamlessly (well, not literally) integrates colours across the spectrum, with orange, violet, gray, yellow, nude, and a few other shades dropped in the mix. Check out the image on the top left … effortlessly cool. Mr. van Noten managed to created a collection that really stands out, but that is also in keeping with the nude shades and mildly androgynous silhouette that many collectors showcased this season. The outfit on the top right is another Dries piece with the same silhouette, but is truer to the designer’s tradition of mixed prints.
I don’t think anyone’s taken the androgynous silhouette further than Marc Jacobs. I always follow his collections, even though for the past several shows, I’ve hated more than half the pieces because they’re just too outrageous for me. I’ve seen an interesting development over the last few seasons though. He totally dropped any semblance of mainstream aesthetic and developed this bizarre, fantasy, space/futuristic, shapeless, drab look that I’m sure could be credited as avant-garde in some circles, but I wasn’t into it (see the blue-grey outfit in the middle on the left – what in God’s name is he trying to do to women’s bodies?). However, in his Spring and Fall 09 collections he took that electric, outrageous look and evolved it into something that actually resembles clothing. I’m so happy I didn’t give up on dear Marc, that I kept looking for his new lines, and believed that he would pull something out of it, because in the end it was worth suffering through a few seasons of total chaos.
All images are from http://www.style.com